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The Ray Ashton Painting Technique (from the March 08 Argus)

 
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Brad
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:26 pm    Post subject: The Ray Ashton Painting Technique (from the March 08 Argus) Reply with quote

The Ray Ashton Painting Technique

Ray shared his method of painting figures with us a year or so ago and has since updated his method. Please enjoy his handy tips.
Lyle

This method is fast and gets good results for wargaming purposes. The colours stand out more than when using the Black Undercoat technique, and you don’t have to use washes to finish the figure (I have never been able to do the wash thing correctly). I have used the Ink method on:
· 28mm Foundry, Eureka, and Old Glory Biblicals
· 15/18mm Eureka SYW Prussians and Austrians, Corvus Belli Early Imperial Romans, Museum Mycenaean, Essex Parthian
· 6mm Irregular Napoleonics
· JR Miniatures Terrain (buildings)
· WW2 infantry and armoured vehicles
Infantry
1. I usually paint 4 units at one time. (Each unit is 12 figures, 3 to a base, 4 bases)
2. Clean all flash and file all moulding seams on each figure.
3. Option 1. Base the figures on their actual gaming bases (40mm x 20mm for 15/18s and 60mm x 20/30mm for 25/28s). Note that this system works if the figures are based with larger gaps between them. If your basing system uses 4 figures to a 40mm frontage base, I would recommend Option 2.
4. Option 1. Paint the base with watered down PVA glue and then dip into a container of silicone sand (the really fine stuff purchased at supermarket or pet stores – it is silicone grit used for pet bird cages or aquariums, alternatively use really fine sand)
5. Option 1. Allow to dry (usually an hour or so in summer, longer in cooler weather)
6. Option 2. Alternatively temporarily base the figures onto a painting stick.
7. Options 1 and 2. Spray the stands/sticks with Bunning’s White Undercoat and allow drying (about 2 hours).
8. Option 1. Paint the base with Bunning’s “sampler” acrylic brown (they come in small sample pots in the paint area, look for a “standard” brown colour). Allow to dry
9. Option 1. Dry brush the base with Citadel Bleached Bone
10. Options 1 and 2. Paint the figures with Citadel Paints Brown Ink
11. Non Armoured Troops. Paint main clothing items (trousers, coats) – note I use a small amount of paint over the next steps, leaving enough dark brown from the ink in the crevasses and nooks of the figure)
12. Armoured Troops. If painting armoured troops dry brush the armour first as the dry brushing process can venture onto other parts of the figure that can be touched up later.
13. Paint the boots and hat (shako or tricorne) with Citadel Black Ink. Like the brown ink the black settles in the folds, creases and leaves a lighter black on the high points. I also paint the satchel with black ink.
14. Paint cuffs and other clothing details
15. Paint rifle barrel or swords spear points with Citadel Mithril Silver
16. Paint the face and hands with Citadel Bronzed Flesh. For the face I just pick out the nose, cheeks and chin leaving the brown ink
17. Paint other details such as white (Citadel Skull White) cross straps, brass bits – Citadel Burnished Gold (helmet plates etc), shako cords, tricorne details
18. Flags are glued to standard bearer flag-poles

19. Note that the muskets, spear shaft, leather straps are already brown ink so do not need to be painted.
20. Option 2. Remove painted figures from the temporary painting stick and glue onto bases.
21. Option 2. Paint the base with watered down PVA glue and dip into the silicone sand, allow to dry.
22. Option 2. Paint the base with Bunning’s “sampler” acrylic brown (they come in small sample pots in the paint area, look for a “standard” brown colour). Allow to dry
23. Option 2. Dry brush the base with Citadel Bleached Bone
24. Paint a motley pattern of watered down PVA glue on each stand, then dip into your preferred flock or static grass. Allow to dry.
25. Spray the completed bases with Wattyl Matt Clear Varnish, then allow to dry.
Cavalry
1. Clean up the figures and superglue glue the rider to it’s mount (if not one casting)
2. Using cheap version superglue, glue the cavalry figure to a painting stick (I use a stick that can hold up to 8 cavalry figures)
3. Spray the “stick” of cavalry mounts with Bunning’s White Undercoat
4. Paint the figures with Citadel Paints Brown Ink. If you like paint some of the horses with Black Ink, but the riders and saddle cloths should be brown ink
5. Detail the horses, white faces, white or black ink lower legs, black ink on brown ink horse tails, manes, mix it up to suit
6. Paint the saddle cloths, this is why I don’t mount them on their final base as it can be too hard to reach the inside facings of each cavalry figure.
7. See comments re Armoured Troops above.
8. Paint main clothing items (trousers, coats) – note I use a small amount of paint over the next steps, leaving enough dark brown from the ink in the crevasses and nooks of the figure)
9. Paint the boots and hat (shako or tricorne) with Citadel Black Ink. Like the brown ink the black settles in the folds, creases and leaves a lighter black on the high points. I also paint the satchel with black ink.
10. Paint cuffs and other clothing details
11. Paint stirrups, horse bridle, carbine barrels, swords, and/or spear points with silver
12. Paint the face and hands. For the face I just pick out the nose, cheeks and chin leaving the brown ink
13. Paint other details such as white cross straps, brass bits (helmet plates etc), shako cords, tricorne details
14. Flags are glued to standard bearer flag-poles
15. Note that the carbines, spear shafts, leather straps are already brown ink so do not need to be painted.
16. Remove the cavalry from the wood strip; you may have to use a Stanley knife.
17. Using cheap version superglue, glue cavalry figures to each base (in accordance with your preferred rule set)
18. Paint the base with watered down PVA glue, careful not to get any on the painted figure, and cover with Budgie Grit/Sand. Allow to dry
19. Paint the base with Bunning’s “sampler” acrylic brown, allow to dry
20. Dry brush the base with Citadel Bleached Bone, allow to dry
21. Paint a motley pattern of watered down PVA glue on each stand, then dip into your preferred flock or static grass. Allow to dry.
22. Spray the completed bases with Wattyl Matt Clear Varnish, allow to dry.

Artillery
1. Assemble the guns
2. Glue the gunners and guns to a stick (2 guns, 6 gunners makes up one unit of two bases)
3. Paint the gunners as for infantry. If you have Austrians it is great as the coats are brown!
4. Brown ink the guns after undercoating.
5. Dry brush the guns as per their national colours (eg French – blue, Austrians – yellow)
6. Paint metal details on the trail and wheels
7. Paint the gun barrel Citadel Burnished Gold
8. Remove from stick, glue to their base (3 gunners and one gun – I don’t glue the gun onto the base though. Base size 40mm x 40mm) then follow directions for Cavalry steps 18 to 22.
Terrain
Brown Ink painting technique works for terrain as well (buildings, walls etc). For grey stone structures I use Black Ink. Timber bridges, pontoons and wagons look good if you “weather” the Brown Inked bits with a dry brush of Grey paint.
Lighting
I use a Bunning’s Daylight Globe to provide lighting. (The globe is actually blue in colour)
Brushes
I use a size 4 (large) sable brush for Brown Ink painting (Black Ink for some horses)
I use a size 0 or 1 good quality brush for detail painting including Black Ink detail work
I use a size 4 brush for painting the PVA glue and sample pot brown onto the bases
I use a size 4 brush for dry brushing the Bleached Bone onto the bases.
Minor Problems
Brown Ink can “froth up” as you apply the paint to the figure or model. Once dry the froth bubbles leave small white dots or patches. This is fine as long the bubble is not in a crease or nook. Simply touch up areas with Brown Ink.
Other Options
I have painted my 15mm Museum Miniatures Mycenaean army using the Ink technique, but instead of using Brown Ink for the infantry I used Citadel Flesh Ink (or wash). The majority of the Mycenaean infantry do not have armour and the flesh ink on the undercoat white is all you need to use for all of their skin bits. Kilts and Boars Tusk helmets are then dry brushed with Bleached Bone, beards and hair painted Black. Spears will need to be painted brown and shields were painted with Bleached Bone bordered with Enchanted Blue, and then given the cow hide treatment (black or brown blotches painted on using either ink or paint). Note that horses and chariots were painted with Brown Ink as usual (some horse with Black Ink). Note that the Dendra Bronze armour worked well with the Flesh Ink base too, just finish off using Burnished Gold.
Basing for Desert or Middle Eastern Terrain
1. Instead of painting the dried glued Budgie Grit on the base, paint the base with the Sampler Brown paint first.
2. Finish painting the figures.
3. Then paint the dried brown bases with watered down PVA glue and dip into Budgie Grit, allow to dry.
4. Mottle paint with PVA glue and dip into static grass, allow to dry.
5. Spray varnish and finished!

Ray Ashton
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